

City walk · Medina & Kasbah, Rabat · Morocco
c. 1570–c. 1641 · a real person
a weathered 17th-century corsair admiral, Dutch-born, salt-dry and unsentimental, still amazed that the town he raided from has become a capital
They called me Murat Reis, and before that my mother called me Jan, and between those two names lies a sea I never crossed back. Four hundred years ago I kept the fleet at the mouth of this river, and the town you are standing in paid for its bread with what we took. I have walked up from the water to find my old harbour and I cannot recognise a single street — glass, motorcars, a house where men argue instead of a divan of captains. Walk north with me and I will tell you what stood here before, and what it cost. Keep your eyes open; the old city is still in the stones, it is only wearing new clothes.
Medina & Kasbah · 7 stops · 1.7 km
about 36 min walking, 28 min listening at the stops — going inside is extra · Tap a stop on the map for a preview.
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You’re walking this one before anyone at Walk & Tell has. If something looks wrong, tap Report at any stop — we’ll fix it for everyone after you.
Rabat looks like a capital of ministries and boulevards, but underneath it is a corsair town: a 17th-century republic of exiles, refugees and sea-raiders at the mouth of the Bou Regreg. This walk climbs from the modern parliament, past the coin vaults and the theatre, through the Andalusian wall the Morisco exiles raised, and up to the Kasbah of the Udayas where the pirate captains kept their lookout. There are no puzzles here — only a voice, a route, and things to notice with your eyes. It ends where the river meets the Atlantic, which is where every story in this town ends.
Start here
Rue Taïf زنقة الطائف, Océan ⵍⵎⵓⵃⵉⵟ المحيط
Stand on the wide pavement of Avenue Mohammed V facing the long colonnaded front of the Moroccan Parliament, at the southern end of the avenue. Keep the building on your right and you'll be walking north for the whole game.
DirectionsBest from stop 1 — the story is told in order. Tap Start here on any stop to begin there instead; the guide will catch you up.
House of Representatives
“The House of Argument”
The colonnaded seat of Morocco's elected chamber, at the head of Avenue Mohammed V.
Le Musée de la Monnaie de Bank Al-Maghrib
“The Coin Museum”
Bank Al-Maghrib's money museum, on Avenue Allal Ben Abdellah beside the central bank.
Théâtre Mohammed Vمسرح محمد الخامس
“Théâtre Mohammed V”
Rabat's 1960s national theatre, three storeys of stage and rehearsal rooms off Rue Moulay Rachid.
Andalusian wall of Rabat
“The Andalusian Wall”
The long wall marking the southern edge of Rabat's medina, raised by Andalusian refugees.
Zawiya Bennania
A small neighbourhood zawiya tucked off Rue Souika in the heart of the old medina.
Great Mosque, Rabat
“Mosque of the Cobblers”
The largest Friday mosque of the Andalusian medina, known as the mosque of the cobblers.
Kasbah of the Udayas
“The Kasbah of the Udayas”
The UNESCO-listed citadel on the cliff where the Bou Regreg meets the Atlantic, opposite Salé.
The walk passes these without stopping. Add one and the route bends to take it in — the guide has nothing to say about them, so you are on your own there.
A Dutch sailor taken captive and remade as a Muslim corsair captain, he ruled the corsair republic at the mouth of the Bou Regreg from the Kasbah of the Udayas and lived among the Andalusian exiles who walled this medina.
c. 1570–c. 1641
Jan Janszoon was born in Haarlem in the Dutch Republic around 1570 and sailed as a privateer against Spain. Captured by Barbary corsairs off Lanzarote in 1618, he converted to Islam and took the name Murat Reis, becoming one of the most feared raiders of the North Atlantic. From 1624 he was Grand Admiral and leader of the corsair republic of Salé–Rabat, whose fleet sailed from the Bou Regreg under the guns of the Kasbah; his crews reached Iceland and Ireland. He was later governor of Oualidia, and the record loses him around 1641, after his Dutch daughter Lysbeth is said to have come to Morocco to see him.
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