

City walk · Seoul · South Korea
27-year-old Korean songwriter, warm and grounded, short sentences, reacts before he explains — “ah”, “mm”, “야” — a slight smile in the voice, never a tour guide
Ah — you came. Okay. I’m Joon. I write songs in Yeonnam-dong, near Hongdae, in a room where my cat sits on the desk and ruins takes. When a song won’t finish I come downtown and walk this exact line, always the same order, always at night. Tonight I’m walking it for a reason I’ll tell you later — mm, not yet. Just walk with me and look where I look.
7 stops · 1.8 km
about 31 min walking, 28 min listening at the stops — going inside is extra · Tap a stop on the map for a preview.
1 / 6
Best time to walk: Best after 5pm or early morning — Sejong-daero and Seoul Plaza have no shade at 2pm. Deoksugung charges admission and closes Mondays, so check the gate before you count on going in; the walk works from outside either way.
You’re walking this one before anyone at Walk & Tell has. If something looks wrong, tap Report at any stop — we’ll fix it for everyone after you.
Joon Lee writes songs in a small room near Hongdae, and when he can’t finish one he takes the subway downtown and walks this line: the gate that isn’t there, the big black hammering man, an old streetcar, a palace wall, and a lawn to sit on. No puzzles — just him talking, the way a friend talks at night. Along the way the real history of Jung-gu keeps interrupting him: 1396, 1902, 1910, 1933. It’s a short walk, mostly flat, and it ends somewhere you can sit down.
Start here
새문안로, 사직동
Stand at the Donuimun (West Big Gate) site marker on Saemunan-ro, at the top of the hill west of Gwanghwamun — the spot where the old West Gate stood. Face east, downhill.
DirectionsBest from stop 1 — the story is told in order. Tap Start here on any stop to begin there instead; the guide will catch you up.
Seodaemun
“The Gate That Isn’t There”
The site of Donuimun, the West Gate of Joseon Seoul, demolished in 1915 and never rebuilt.
Hammering Man
Jonathan Borofsky’s monumental steel kinetic sculpture, a worker whose arm never stops.
전차 381호
“Streetcar 381”
A preserved Seoul streetcar, number 381, standing on the pavement off Sejong-daero.
Sontag Hotel
“The First Dabang”
Site of the Sontag Hotel (1902–1917), which ran the first hotel café in Korea.
Deoksugung
“Deoksugung Wall”
The walled palace at 99 Sejong-daero, main palace of the Korean Empire from 1897.
Seokjojeon
“Stone Hall, 1910”
The granite Western-style hall inside Deoksugung, finished in 1910, now the Daehan Empire History Museum.
Seoul City Hall
“A Lawn to Sit On”
Seoul City Hall with the old city hall — now Seoul Metropolitan Library — and Seoul Plaza in front of it.
The walk passes these without stopping. Add one and the route bends to take it in — the guide has nothing to say about them, so you are on your own there.
Joon is a present-day Yeonnam-dong singer-songwriter who walks this downtown line whenever a song won’t finish; every stop here is one of his 2am places.
Fictional guide. Joon Lee, 27, born in Daegu, moved to Seoul for music and lives in Yeonnam-dong with a cat called Bori and a home studio the size of a wardrobe. He plays small rooms around Hongdae and records at night because the neighbours complain less. When a song stalls he takes the line downtown and walks from the old West Gate site to Seoul Plaza. Everything he tells you about the places themselves is real; the rest is his own life.
Joon Lee is a character created for this game.
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