

Town walk · Ubud, Ubud District · Indonesia
1895–1942 · a real person
a German painter of the 1930s in Bali: curious, courteous, self-mocking, in love with the valley and uneasy about what he started
My name is Walter Spies. I came from Moscow and Dresden, and I stopped in this valley in 1927 and never truly left it. People call me the man who made Bali famous, and some days that sounds like an accusation. Walk with me from the forest in the south, past the palace of the princes who kept me, up to the river where my house stood. Nothing to solve today. Only to listen, and to look.
Ubud · 8 stops · 3.6 km
about 46 min walking, 32 min listening at the stops — going inside is extra · Tap a stop on the map for a preview.
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Best time to walk: Early morning or after four. The market is at its best before nine, and the Monkey Forest and museums close around five.
You’re walking this one before anyone at Walk & Tell has. If something looks wrong, tap Report at any stop — we’ll fix it for everyone after you.
A single line through Ubud, from the monkey forest in the south to the river gorge in the west. The guide is Walter Spies, the German painter who settled in Ubud in 1927 and helped change how Balinese art was made and sold. No puzzles: just a story told stop by stop, through a library, a market, the royal palace, a water temple, a museum and a river temple. It ends above the meeting of two rivers, where Spies built his house.
Start here
Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Ubud
Begin at the main entrance of the Ubud Monkey Forest, at the southern end of Jalan Monkey Forest, by the ticket windows.
DirectionsBest from stop 1 — the story is told in order. Tap Start here on any stop to begin there instead; the guide will catch you up.
Ubud Monkey Forest
“Mandala Suci Wenara Wana”
A sanctuary of about 1,260 long-tailed macaques, three temples from around 1350, and a cremation ground, owned by Padangtegal village.
Ubud Palace
“Puri Saren Agung, the Ubud Palace”
Puri Saren Agung, the historic residence of Ubud's royal family and still the heart of the town.
Ida Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati
“The Statue of Cokorda Sukawati”
A metal statue of Ida Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati, the Ubud prince who invited artists and founded museums.
Prianka Ubud art market
“Prianka Art Market Stalls”
A run of art and craft stalls near the water temple, selling paintings and carvings to visitors.
Pura Taman Saraswati
The lotus-pond water temple dedicated to Sarasvati, designed by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and built 1951–52.
Puri Lukisan Museum
“Museum Puri Lukisan”
Bali's oldest art museum, holding Balinese painting and wood carving from the 1930s onwards.
Pura Gunung Lebah
An ancient temple at the confluence of the Campuhan and Wos rivers, beside the Campuhan bridge.
Blanco Renaissance Museum
“The Blanco Renaissance Museum”
The hilltop museum of the painter Antonio Blanco, opened on 28 December 1998 in the house where he lived and worked.
Spies lived and painted in Ubud from 1927 under the patronage of the Ubud royal family of Puri Saren Agung, co-founded the Pita Maha artists' association whose work fills Museum Puri Lukisan, and built his house at Campuhan beside Pura Gunung Lebah.

1895–1942
Walter Spies was a German painter and musician, born in Moscow in 1895. He moved to Java in 1923 and settled in Bali in 1927, living at Campuhan near Ubud under the patronage of the Ubud princely family. He helped found the Pita Maha artists' association with Rudolf Bonnet, Cokorda Gede Agung Sukawati and the Balinese sculptor and architect I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, which reshaped Balinese painting for a new market. He worked on the kecak dance in its modern performance form and hosted visiting writers, dancers and film-makers. Arrested by the Dutch in 1938 and interned in 1940, he died in 1942 when a ship carrying him was bombed.
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