

City walk · Mumbai · India
1640–1677 · a real person
a 17th-century English governor, dry and courteous, proud of his accounts, astonished by what his frontier became
I am Gerard Aungier, and in the 1670s I governed a wet, unprofitable set of islands called Bombay. I drew a line across the north of it, against the Portuguese across the water, and I built forts on the hillocks to hold it. I have come back to walk that line with you, and I find it does not divide countries any more — it divides two kinds of wealth. Walk it with me, from the cloth sellers to the fountains, and I will tell you what I meant and what it became.
Mumbai · 8 stops · 4.8 km
about 160 min walking, 36 min listening at the stops — going inside is extra · Tap a stop on the map for a preview.
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Best time to walk: Early morning or after 5pm. Gandhi Market is busiest and best in the evening; the Nature Park keeps daytime hours and is closed on some Mondays, so check before you set out.
You’re walking this one before anyone at Walk & Tell has. If something looks wrong, tap Report at any stop — we’ll fix it for everyone after you.
This is a walk along an old edge of Bombay: the creek line where English territory stopped and the Portuguese lands began. Today that same line runs from the tailors of Gandhi Market, through Dharavi's leather workshops and tanneries, past a broken fort and a mangrove park, into the glass offices of the Bandra-Kurla Complex. Gerard Aungier, the governor who fortified this frontier in the 1670s, tells the story of what his boundary became. There are no puzzles: only walking, looking, and listening.
Start here
Laxmibai Kelkar Marg, Guru Tegh Bahadur Nagar
Start at Gandhi Market in Sion, on the pavement by the clothes and fabric stalls near the market entrance. Face the stalls with the traffic behind you.
DirectionsBest from stop 1 — the story is told in order. Tap Start here on any stop to begin there instead; the guide will catch you up.
Gandhi Market
A day-and-night Sion market of clothes stalls, tailors, fabric sellers and street food.
Dharavi
“The Edge of Dharavi”
One of the world's largest and most productive informal settlements, founded in 1884 on a mangrove island.
Leather market
“The Leather Market”
Dharavi's leather trade in the open — the workshops and shops that grew from the tanneries moved here in 1887.
Dharavi Fort
Stone remains of one of the small frontier forts that watched the creek at the island's northern edge.
Maharashtra Nature Park
A birdwatching park and mangrove woodland grown on what was once a municipal rubbish dump.
Godrej BKC
A high-end office building in Bandra-Kurla Complex, designed by SOM, on ground reclaimed from the Mithi creek flats.
ICAI BKC Library
“The Accountants' Library”
A professional library for chartered accountants in the heart of Mumbai's financial district.
Fountain of Joy, Dhirubhai Ambani Square
“Dhirubhai Ambani Square”
An open public square in BKC with a large musical fountain, busy with families in the evening.
The walk passes these without stopping. Add one and the route bends to take it in — the guide has nothing to say about them, so you are on your own there.
As Governor of Bombay he fortified this northern frontier — the Sion and Dharavi hillocks above the creek — where English ground ended and Portuguese Salsette began.
1640–1677
Gerard Aungier was the East India Company's Governor of Bombay from 1669 to 1677, and is generally counted the founder of the city as a trading port. He built fortifications along the island's northern boundary, including the hillock fort at Sion, raised between 1669 and 1677. He set up courts, a mint and a militia, and invited weavers, traders, Parsis, Jews and Gujarati merchants to settle under a promise of religious freedom. He died in Surat in 1677. His words in this walk are imagined; the facts of his life are not.
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